Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Day 35&36: La Linea - Granada, 351 km

Finally made La Alhambra, but before we get to that I had a most eventful day on the road,  going from Gibraltar to Granada. Quite a long haul actually,  but a lot of variation. First mountain roads to Ronda, which has the most beautiful (and famous) little bridge. The town, former village, is divided by a gorge, El Tajo, some 130 meters deep. No bridge at first, so to visit your neighbour on the other side was a bit of a walk. Then they built this "new bridge" (there were two other ones, neither as spectacular). Finished in 1793 and since then socializing has been established in Ronda as well.
I thought the worst for the day was done getting to Ronda. Boy was I mistaken. Missed a road I'd planned to take and took the next instead. A very small mountain road, crossing over to the next bigger road. In Spain the road signs a usually very good, with warnings for just about everything along a specific road. This one only had one sign at the start, saying "Road in bad condition". Thought to cover for it all I guess.
It did. Add to that the usual curves and bends, high altitude,  cliffs and step drops and oncoming traffic. Interesting hour before I got to the other end. Then the "bigger" road turned out just as small, but with far better tarmac and the usual good road signs.
Last part of the drive was highway. Not very exciting,  but at least there was some rain. Very few drops, but each one the size of a bucket or so. Soaking when I finally made it to the campsite. A very good one, although they charge for wifi. Really think it should be included in the price!
Now then, the Alhambra. Does it love up to it's reputation and hausse?
Yes it does. I was informed that the number of tickets per day was limited and there were specific visiting hours. Yes, this is true, but as far as I understood this applies only to the old moorish part. The rest is open. Might be wrong here though. Got my booking at the campsite and exchanged that for a ticket at the gate. No problems at all.
It's a pity there's not much left in terms of furniture or tapestries etc. The place is really nice and with a bit of fantasy you see the moorish court and the warriors as well. Take your time though and ponder about the place, the people and the work put into it. Also, read Tales of the Alhambra (Washington Irving, sort of a local hero, although american), before going there. And make sure to get a map at the tourist office. Easy to lose track of which tower or gate is which otherwise...
While waiting for the bus back,  I also had a look at Albayacin, the old quarters of Granada and yet another of these grand cathederals that have become sort of a hallmark for this journey.
Sierra de Ronda

The new little bridge in Ronda

Sierra Nevada from campsite

Sunset over Sierra Nevada

La Alhambra

La Alhambra

Courtyard of the Lions

From the top

Courtyard of Carlos V palace

Le Generalife

Le Generalife

Puerta de Justicia.  It is said that when the hand reaches down and grabs the key, Sultan Boabdil and his army will be released from their enchanted captivity inside the mountain below La Alhambra and reclaim Andalucia.
Alternatively the palace will crumble to ruins.
Alternatively the moors will lose Andalucia to the christian spaniards, but as this has already happened I think we might disregard this last myth...
Lots of myth going round this place.

Puerta de La Alhambra

View from Albayacin

Catedral de Granada

More of the Cathederal

Main altar

Sunday, September 27, 2015

Day 33&34: Dos Hermanas - La Linea/Gibraltar, 256 + 66 km

A most soothing drive to the southern tip of Europe. I set out early, to avoid traffic and heat. Was not disappointed. Don't have the best of wheather forecasts and frooze my --- off almost all the way to La Linea. Was awarded with the most beautiful sunrise over the mountains of Andalucia though!
Have now been to what Spain claims to be the southernmost tip of mainland Europe. Might be contested by Greece possibly...
It's definitely the most southern spot of my trip though and no, it is not Gibraltar! It is in a little sleepy resort some 30 km west of Gibraltar called Tarifa. Recognizing the true value of tourism, it is furthermore closed to access by the Guardia Civil. I came pretty close though.
Also done Gibraltar of course. Bigger than you might think I actually drove some 60 km inside it. Very narrow streets inside the township. Very step and everything one direction. Interesting.
Seen the monkeys, the tunnels, the cannons and the dockyard and that's about all there is to see. Very british as well of course. Full english breakfast and fish&chips served all day. Lot's of history  to see and also I got my cave finally. A big natural cave, formerly a hospital, turned into a concert venue and tourist hotspot.
Finished off with one of the few treats of the trip. Got a tip in Plymouth about an Argentinian restaurant, serving " the world's best steak". Gauchos, as it is called, certainly lived up to it's reputation. If you ever get to Gibraltar, go there!
Going back I was caught by the red lights at the airport. The access road from Spain runs right across the runway. Had to wait for "incoming traffic", as the planes do have right of way!
Sunrise over Andalucia

Southernmost tip of mainland Europe. No access! 

The rock

Note the gunports halfway up the cliffside...

Gibraltar town

Just to give a feel for how steep it is

Beware! 

Main square

Promose, I will not put any papers on the toilet! 

Saturday, September 26, 2015

Day 31&32: Cordoba - Dos Hermanas / Sevilla, 153 km

I have not written for a few days now. The transport between Cordoba and my new campsite outside Sevilla was just that. Transport and housekeeping. Very good but eventless road and then to Carrefour for some supplies. Need those days as well.
Sevilla on the other hand was something completely different. At first I was actually hesitant whether to go there at all. It is a bit of a drive, but I figured having come this far I would probably only regret afterwards if I'd skipped it.
I'm very glad I didn't skip Sevilla!
Coming from visits of fairly small towns and villages, Sevilla is big. Not only by footprint, but also heigthwise. Wide boulevards and fairly long distances to walk. The size of it all makes that you don't see whichever place you are going to until you turn a corner and is already there. Weird.
Did a full day in town and wasn't back at the campsite until dark. Well worth every minute,  although waiting for the non-showing bus back for an hour was a bit of a drag. Highly recommended place!
Another kind of Spain than what's been in my pics before

Do not trespass

Plaza de España

Waiting in line to enter the cathederal

Finally inside world's largest cathederal, matchning if not surpassing Chartres. Also Christofer Columbus has his tomb here

Church-stuff

Giralda, bell tower of the cathederal

The bells. No stairs up here, but 35 ramps, so the guards of old could go up by horse

La Juderia

Real Alcazar

Courtyard of Real Alcazar

Plaza del Toros, world's first bullfighting arena

Like the guy in the hat, to the left in the picture

Torre del Oro

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Day 30: Cordoba

A full day of sightseeing in Cordoba. Of course the main attraction being the famous Mezquita, or cathederal. It was one of the largests mosques around (muslims still asking the pope for permission to pray there, to no avail), before the christians decided to make a church out of it instead. Very serene and impressive, although I still hold Chartres the more beautiful one.
 Then some gardens and castle, where the christian kings used to stay, visiting Cordoba. If I understood it all correctly that is. Tranquil place with fishponds and stuff. Finishing off with La Juderia, the old jewish quarters, where everything is very picturesque and sorry to say, touristic. A caña by the main square and then back to the camping again and suddenly the day have gone.
It is also a day of grief and sorrow. My hat has disappeared. Probably just dropped it somewhere, but might have been stolen from my backpack. Whichever, it has been with me for many years and now also across Europe. Can only hope that whoever picked it up finds a good use in it.
Tomorrow regroup for Sevilla, so another day of travel coming up. Not very far this time though. Should be able to make the 200 km approx, before the heat sets in.
Mezquita

More Mezquita

Bell tower of the Mezquita

Tranquil morning

Roman sarcophagus, showing the gates of Hades, door open for business

Garden

La Juderia

A bit of, very good, entertainment

Garden in La Juderia